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“Seward’s Folly” by Any Other Tree

29 Monday Mar 2021

Posted by danielwalldammit in Alaska, History, Native American Themes, Public History

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

Alaska, Potlach, Saxman Park, Seward Shaming Pole, Seward's Day, Shame, Tlingit, Totem Pole, William Seward

Don’t hate us because we are on holiday!

It’s a holiday here is Alaska.

Seward’s Day!

“Alaska Purchase” by Fred Anderson

Yes, that’s right.

We celebrate, William Seward, the man who arranged the purchase of Alaska from Russia here in Alaska. We celebrate this man on the anniversary of the signing of the deal he made with Russia.

Not everyone celebrates this date, of course. Some folks question whether or not the Russians could have sold all that land, much of which they were nowhere near controlling in the first place. But in the logic of collective fictions like nation states, it would seem the move has stuck, to to speak. There are those who mourn the consequences, and I’m told some folks in Russia still wonder how the Hell that happened themselves. At the end of the day, this still ends up being a day off work.

Okay, I am still working today, but since a lot of my coworkers aren’t, that means fewer meetings and I can focus on the things I want to, which is a kind of holiday for me. Also, it means I have a little time to knock out a quick blog post.

About Seward!

I’m told the rest of America was doubtful about this purchase at the time it was made.

Something about “Seward’s Icebox” or “Seward’s folly?”

Then again, some folks make way too much of a political cartoon; others have never figured out the difference between a catchy byline and the substance of an editorial. Writers took their shots and indulged in snarky quips back in the day just as they do now. It doesn’t mean they didn’t see the potential. The historian Richard Welch did a pretty good job of showing that public opinion was nowhere near as negative at the time of purchase as people typically assume. Still, it takes a touch of conflict to draw people into a story and the notion that Seward saw something in this state the rest of the country didn’t sure makes for an interesting first act. I suppose the third act in that version of story is statehood.

Or maybe the opening of a Walmart.

Or a Fred Meyers.

There are plenty of other ways of telling stories about the purchase of Alaska. One of my favorites can be seen in the Saxman Totem Park, just south of Ketchikan.

I posted a picture of it last year, right about this time.

…probably not a coincidence.

Seward Shaming Pole, 3rd Edition

Okay, so this pole may not be exactly about the purchase of Alaska, but it’s certainly purchase-adjacent. As to Seward’s Day, it’s right on point.

This is known as the Seward Shaming Pole. In fact it’s the third version of that pole, as the first two have succumbed to weather and termites. This version of the pole was completed just a few short years ago (2017). You can google up the earlier versions. As I understand it this one has its critics among the locals owing to the absence of certain features included in the earlier versions. I’m told a coat of white paint on the face was among the expected features. I only have this by word of mouth, so I’m not entirely certain what to make of it, but the differences do seem quite significant. In any event, this is the current version of the infamous Seward Shaming Pole.

What makes it a shaming pole?

Convention of course!

By ‘convention’ I mean the conventions of the Tlingit people. You might think of his piece as fitting into the totem pole genre within their own cultural order.

Hints that this particular pole is meant to shame rather than honor its subject are contained in the box upon which the figure of Seward sits and the red in his ears. (That red stood out more in previous versions.)

The red, I’m told signifies embarrassment.

The box?

Well that is loot!

Specifically, that is loot packed away in a bentwood box, one of the varieties of artwork thriving in the northwest coast cultural complex. In any event, the point is to suggest that Seward took a pile of loot off with him in the wake of a visit to the region.

How did he get the loot?

It was gifted to him in a potlatch ceremony, another of the cultural practices common to the southeast cultural region of Alaska.

So, what makes these gifts loot?

Because Seward never threw a potlatch of his own to compliment the one thrown for him.

To say that this is unacceptable is putting it mildly.

Emily Moore tells the story better than I could, but the essential details are this. William Seward came to visit the region in 1869. He was welcomed with a potlatch by Chief Ebbits of Tongass Village. As a leader of the Taant’a kwáan Teikweidí clan, Ebbits welcomed Seward according to local custom, granting to Seward the honors due to a another great leader. A feast was give in Seward’s honor and gifts were given to him. Then Seward went on his way.

It’s the going-on-his-way part that is a problem here.

The trouble is that a potlatch is not normally a one time affair. It is a gesture in an ongoing relationship. Once given, it is expected that a complimentary feast will be given to reciprocate the first. Doing so is a matter of obligation, and failure to do so leaves an imbalance in the relationship. It’s tough to tell what Seward may have thought himself, but for their own part Chief Ebbits and his clan most likely felt they were initiating a permanent relationship. When neither Seward nor any of his family ever showed up to answer the honor given to him, this cast the entire relationship in a negative light.

As this particular potlatch was given in honor of Seward’s role in leadership of the United States, the failure in this instance represents more than Seward’s own failure, it is a failure of the United States to acknowledge to live up to its obligations to Tongass Village and to the Tlingit people.

Some might be inclined to extend that out to Alaska Natives in general.

This is the history commemorated in that pole.

In another sense, this is direct commentary on that question about how two nations could swap lands neither one much to do with. If the purchase of Alaska is a done deal, so to speak, it is a deal done by two nation-states. The pole is a reminder of those not present when the deal was made, those whose own acceptance of the deal we celebrate today has been taken for granted all-too-often by the nation which acquired Alaska by means of it.

…which gives new meaning phrase “Seward’s folly.”

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Damn the Science Exhibit; We’re Looking at Dioramas!

15 Friday Nov 2013

Posted by danielwalldammit in Alaska, Museums

≈ 5 Comments

Tags

Alaska Natives, Aleutians, Anchorage, Anchorage Museum, Athabaskan, Dioramas, Haida, Inupiat, Museums, Tlingit

I'm not sure what community this represents, but I really like the scene.

A small community on the coast.

A couple of months back I found myself in Anchorage without too much to do. On my last day down there the devil that sits on my shoulder lost a debate with the nerdy bookworm that sometimes passes for my angelic adviser, and so I actually chose to do something instructive and educational. I went to the Anchorage Museum.

Don’t be too disappointed; it was actually kinda cool. My favorite part of the museum was actually the science exhibit, much of which was interactive. sadly, I don’t think my pictures and videos did much to capture the brilliance which was that particular part of the museum. Being a museum, the place was of course full of wonderful artifacts and displays casting light on all manner of things Alaskan. Being a cruel fellow, I am not going to show you much of that.

…at least not today.

No.

Today, we are looking at dioramas. A number of these were strewn about the museum, and I managed to get few decent pictures of some. I won’t pretend that this is a complete set, so to speak, as I am pretty sure that a few of thee exhibits told my camera to screw off and I completely neglected to right those wrongs, but at any rate, these are the pics I got. Both my devil-advisor and my nerdy-near-angel hope you enjoy them.

Quick Note: rather predictably, the scenes depicting Alaska Natives seem to have got most of my attention here. Depending on how broad you want your paint strokes to be we can bundle the Native Alaska population into 3, 5, or lots of general groups. I would normally go with 5; the natives of the outer Aleutian Islands (Aleutian or Unangan, depending on who you ask);  the Alutiiq (or Sugpiak) of the Eastern Aleutians parts of the Southwest coastal region; Yupiit of the Western coast, Inupiat of the Northern coasts, and Athabaskans who occupied interior Alaska. For those wondering, the Yupiit and Inupiat are the natives once commonly referred to as ‘Eskimos’, but we aren’t going to do that here. …oh, and let’s not forget the Northwest Coastal natives, who are ironically located in Southeast Alaska. When I say “Northwest Coast natives” I am referring to a common classification used by anthropologists to break the Native American population into about 10 distinct culture areas. So, ironically enough, Alaska’s Northwest Coastal natives are in the Southeast. …and if that manner of speaking seems weird, then the devil on my shoulder is well pleased.

I don’t seem to have pictures (even bad ones) for Yupiit or Alutiiq populations. I don’t know if Missed an exhibit or if I just wasn’t in a button pressing mood when I happened upon them. So, we have here representations of 3 native populations (depicted more or less as they might have lived prior to contact). I also have a few other pieces on the Alaskan Railroad, the Aleutian Campaign of World War II, and one beautiful scene of a community that I failed to identify (cause I’m a bad man).

A small community on the coast.
This piece represents Northwest Coastal natives.
The Northwest Coastal Natives (mainly Tlingit and Haida)

This part of Alaska is about as far from Barrow as Orlando is from New York.
Elder Native.
Elder from another angle.

Inupiat hauling up a Bowhead Whale
Lots of mini muktuk for the mini villagers!
Yes, they still do this. Add a few modern tools to the diorama, and this could be a Spring hunt today.

These are the railroad shops of about 1919.
The shops are of course where railroady stuff got fixed.
This represented an Athabaskan community hunting caribou.

Definitely not the best picture, but this is another pic of the Athabaskan village.
Aleutian village.
Aleutian Villager.

Aleutian Home haunted by a reflection from some other exhibit.
Aleut Village Again.
Moar Aleutian Goodness!

This depicts the Aleutian Campaign in World War II.
More from the Aleutian Campaign
The weather was probably as much trouble in the Aleutian campaign as the Japanese

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Murals and More in Anchorage

07 Friday Dec 2012

Posted by danielwalldammit in Alaska, Bad Photography, Street Art

≈ 44 Comments

Tags

Alaska, Alaska Natives, Anchorage, Art, Mural, Photography, Photos, Street Art, Tlingit

Raven and Eagle

Raven and Eagle

When I tell people I live in Alaska, I almost invariably hear about a visit to Anchorage. Either that or a relative who lives there. It’s the geographic equivalent of saying; “Oh you live in Denver; I’ve been to Albuquerque,” except that Denver and Albuquerque are closer to one another, and more similar. There really is a world of difference between Barrow and Anchorage. The Anchorage skyline is full of mountains, and it doesn’t lack for trees. I always notice those first. And then I notice all the people.

I also notice the artwork.

From my first visit to Anchorage, I took a shine to its public artwork. There is a particular downtown alley so full of murals I find myself headed towards it every time I make it into town. And yes, I am happy this city is part of he state I now call home, which is probably why it makes sense after all that people bring it up. I never get into or out of Alaska without going through this stopping point.

…which is a very good thing.

I am particularly fond of a number of murals featuring themes from Alaska Natives. The Raven and Eagle symbolism is of course a prominent feature of Tlingit life, and a number of murals feature hunting motifs familiar to Yupit and Inupiat. A few specific highlights of the tour would include:

– The Iditarod Mural, which now includes the name of John Quniak Baker, an Inupiat from Kotsebue. He won the race in 2011.

– A rather bland looking multi-panel piece with just a hint of something devious in it. (Honestly, I don’t know if I got all the panels right, but look closely. There is an interesting twist in there somewhere.)

– A Mural commemorating Alaska statehood. It is sometimes referred to as the ‘Alaskan Mount Rushmore’. It features portraits of Robert Atwood, Bob Bartlett, William Egan, and Ernest Gruening, each of which has been generated out of a range of smaller murals. You can find out more about this piece here.

– A Whaling Wall, one of a series of spectacular pieces created by the Wyland Corporation.

– The Sun Station at the Anchorage Light Speed Planet Walk.

– The Anchorage History Mural by Bob Patterson, …which should probably get its own post some day.

– I’m particularly fond of the murals on the backside of Phyllis’s Cafe, not the least of reasons being that she was kind enough to talk to me about it for a little while. the Tlingit symbolism in the mural is no accident as Phyllis belongs to the Eagle Moiety, Killer Whale clan as I recall. She told me the mural still has a little work to go. Perhaps, I will be taking new pictures of it some time in the near future. I also enjoyed a wonderful meal of King Crab and amber ale in the cafe that evening, the perfect ending to a long trip.

I have by no means captured all the artwork anchorage streets and alleys have to offer, which is good, because I plan on going back for more.

(You may click on a picture to embiggen it.)

Airport Bears!
Twin Dragons Mongolian BBQ on Gambell and 15th.
Police Department

He tags because he cares!
Sculpture
Nuther Sculpture

School Murals
More School Murals!
Multi-Panel I

Multi-Panel II
Multi-Panel III
Multi-Panel IV

Multi-Panel V
Multi-Panel VI
Multi-Panel VII

I do not understand this mural. Is it poetry?
An original name for a bar, so to speak.
Sewing Shop

Yes, that really is what you think it is.
Moar fur panties! …and a bikini too.
Mural on a Bar

Furs
Theatre
Just Pretty

Buildings
Statue dedicated to William Henry Seward (I think it looks just like him!)
Sun Station

Totem Decoration
Eagle
Simply Gorgeous

“Alaska’s Mount Rushmore”
“Alaska’s Mount Rushmore” Minus the zoom!
Random Design

Grill Mural
Yamaya cafe
Imagine finding one of these here!

PSA
Whaling Wall
Whaling Wall, Part II

Iditarod Mural from across the street.
Iditarod Mural – 1&2
Iditarod Mural 1

Iditarod Mural 2
Map of Alaska
This looks like an epic struggle.

This does not appear to be a happy man.
Raven and Eagle
9-11

Backpacking Moose …of course!
Alley
Walrus Door

Polar Bear
A well guarded plane.
Puppy Heart?

Seal
Garbage and paint drippings in the alley.
Eagle Totem (Phyllis’s Cafe)

Raven Lodge (Phyllis’s Cafe)
Unfinished Section, Phyllis’s Cafe
Phyllis’ cafe

Alaska Fur Factory
Sundry Sea Mammals
Whaling Crew

Anchorage History Mural

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